The Twelve Kingdoms
DescriptionThis costume was a challenge for me. I had to do alot of alterations. The lesson I learned is that creating a costume to wear while your pregnant takes alot of patience and will to do.
Robe: The purple border on the bottom and sleeve cuffs are made of purple romance brocade joined with golden check brocade. The border fabrics were joined to the main robe by cutting the scalloped shape on the purple fabric. Then I overlayed it onto the gold fabric and pinned in in place. Then I stay stitched it in place. I then repeat the same process again on the gold portion of the fabric to join it to the main body of the robe. Afterwards, I satin stitched the seams for a decorative effect. To echo the dark gold color in the reference picture I decided to use amber glass beads and gold spacers. The same method was used to add the cuffs onto the sleeves. The gold floral tassel detail was created by making 5 separate circular coils. Then sewing through the coil with matching thread to secure into place. After all 5 circles coils are created I then again sewed all 5 pieces together with matching thread. An additional 4 gold beads were sewn onto the pieces. One all the beads were secured a I sewn on a store bought tassel to the back of the piece. Afterwards, the piece was sewn onto the overlap border trim of the robe. A zipper and hook & eye closure were added to the closing side. Snap tape was sewn onto the collar and chest overlap trims as well.
Underdress: The torso is made out of duchess satin. The skirt is made of 3 yd dupioni silk. Silk was chosen because it was historically more accurate than the satin. Also the weight of the duchess satin was too cumbersome for the skirt. The silk moved better and was more flowy. I used a basic shirt pattern and omited the arms. Then I redrew the pattern to conform it for maternity wear. Next I cut and sewed the torso. Then I cut 2 rectangular lengths of silk then hemmed bottoms & gathered the tops of each piece. I matched the side seams and sewed the two pieces together. Next I sewed the silk skirt to the torso piece. I finished it off my finishing the armhole and neck open with facing of remenant fabric.
Blouse: I altered a mandarin collar blouse pattern by cutting off everything from mid bustline. Then I drew in a trapazoid-like shape modify for the blouse to for maternity fashion. I used a turquiose silk brocade. In addition to the opening at the shoulder/collar area, I added a side zipper for ease of dressing. Coordinating frog closures were made from remanent fabric and sewn to the blouse. Additionally, snaps were sewn on along the collar for added security to ensure the blouse would stay shut. Later I went back and seam ripped the frog closures and replaced them with turquiose cording closures instead. I prefered the look of it better. Additionally, I had to make last minute alteration after final fitting the weekend prior to MTAC. Because of changes to my body shape I spilt the back of the blouse open and added a pleated panel insert to accommodate for a larger size. Fortunately I had just enough remanent fabric available to complete this.