This gown is made in cooperation with a dear friend of mine. He has a passion for costume design and has turned this talent into a career as tailor and costume designer.
The sleeveless over gown is made of rubyred crushed viscose velvet and red shantung. The tight-fitting bodice has bust darts and a waist seam. In order to increase the width of the skirt, a big, asymmetric godet of red shantung is set in at each side seam. The gown has a very long train and closes in the back with a lacing. The lacing in front has no function, it’s just decoration. The whole gown is decorated with four different vintage sari trims, red clear glass beads, off-white pearls, facet cut metal beads etc. The belt is made of three types of red cords, two types of metal ornaments, red facet cut gemstones, big, filigree metal spheres and beads in off-white, red and gold.
The under gown is made of off-white viscose jacquard, some kind of matelasse chiffon, ruby crushed viscose velvet and embroidered, iridescent taffeta in orange-gold. The nearly floor-length under gown is made of off-white viscose jacquard. It has a waist seam and a stand-up Elizabethan styled collar. The collar is stiffed with fusible interfacing and plastic boning. The edges are decorated with an off-white box-pleated ribbon trim with golden lines woven in. The under and the over gown are sewn together at the neckline. The front closes with three pairs of ties, but the front closure of the under gown is also just decoration.
The trumpet sleeves are overlong and have a train. The upper sleeves are made of off-white viscose jacquard and a matelasse chiffon overlay. They are tight-fitting and decorated with a net of golden soutache, two types of red, clear glass beads and off-white pearls. This net visually connects the lower sleeves with the bodice. The lower sleeves are made of ruby crushed viscose velvet. They are trumped-shaped and lined with iridescent gold-orange taffeta with red embroidery on. The curved edges of the lining are trimmed with golden soutache. The inner sleeves are made of off-white viscose jacquard and off-white matelasse chiffon. They are tight-fitting and decorated with golden soutache, narrow ribbons of light-golden metallic tissue and stands of off-white beads.
The base of the headdress is made of wire and wire mesh. The headdress is then covered with a layer of golden crash taffeta and a top layer of golden organza. It’s decorated with two different types of golden metallic lace trim, off-white beads and red facet-cut gemstones.
A big, heavily decorated crown is placed between the two cones. It’s composed of two ready-made, sheet metal crowns which were cut in pieces and glued together in order to achieve the desired shape. The crown is connected to a rim with the help of two golden trapezoidal pieces of close-meshed wire mesh. The connecting pieces are edged with a small tubing, painted in gold and decorated with different metal ornaments, off-white beads, red facet-cut gemstones and red facet-cut gemstones in a socket. The curved rim is made of a close-meshed wire mesh. It’s edged with a small tubing, painted in gold and decorated with off-white beads and red facet-cut gemstones.
For the three rings, red facet-cut gemstones in a socket resp. a button with a facet-cut gemstone are glued onto a blank ring and painted in gold. The ear hooks are made of wire, nylon thread, two oval metal ornaments, red glass beads, filligree metal beads in three different sizes, oval metal beads, tapered bead caps and beads in off-white and gold.