Robes: The black is black cotton and the white is bleached muslin. The pattern was based on my kendo gi and hakama. Technically the hakama aren't wide enough. I had to fudge the pleats a little. These are machine sewn for the most part- the pleats are handsewn in to try and make them stay. There are actually two separate shirts, one white and one black. Some cosplayers choose to just sew white trim onto the gi, but my personal preference is this way.