Yuyama Kakunojō (遊山赫
Bakumatsu Kikansetsu Irohanihoheto
Friend introduced the series to me... in a form of cosplay proposal! LOL. The character designs are attractive to me and I picked to find out more about the female lead of the show... I loved her stage costume but catching up with the series made me dislike her off-stage persona; whiny and .. useless D:
Another friend tells me... well, at least she is in control and full of confidence when she is performing. That was true! And so I went full-gear on costume production ^^
I was excited to write production notes for this costume as I have been dying to try a character with an elaborate headdress, beautiful kira-kira kanzashi-s, and a kimono + obi.
The rest of the costume was very interesting and so the no-sewing background of mine tackled it the way I have always done so. The unorthodox way. XD But it was fun planning how I can complete the costume.
Her wig grieved me the most. I often sit in my 1-hr bus rides home looking through my prints and running production ideas through my head... how can I do the wig, this part of the hair, that part of the hair.
Gotta thank Cvy for letting me steam off my worries on her and sometimes we have little short talks about how I can do this. I finally did it! THANK YOU WIG-SHISHIO! =X
The entire wig is made out of 2 long black wigs, 1 of them totally taken apart into wefts for construction of the hair 'pieces'.
White glue is the medium that I used to construct the wefts into layers and layers of hair for the 'pieces'.
The ..main hair piece took 8 layers of wefts. The fan shape hair piece took 5 layers of wefts. There is no paper base so i was a little generous on the glue.
When the hair pieces dried, i took mock shots and found that they appear very shiny and plastic in photos and I had to cast additional DRY hair wefts onto the pieces, only the 'ends' of the wefts were glued to hold. leaving most parts 'dry' in order for the wig to be photogenic.
Sewing was tough when you have only a pair of hands, and the styrofoam mannequin head. That poor head had to endure alot of accidental pokage when I sew the hair pieces onto the mother-wig.
I am lucky the mannequin head does not provide too much sizing discrepancies when I used it for ALOT of 'positioning', sizing, etc. By the way I used denim thread (please do not use normal thread!)
The entire wig took a consistent free-hours production time of um...1month? It really takes alot of patience out of me. Because I constantly worry when I work on it, because i HATE remaking/redoing/amending.
I LOVED THE HAIR ACCESSORIES. This was one reason why I wanted to cosplay a Maiko. This is pretty much like a dream come true ^^
But of course Kakunojo's hair accessories are not Maiko, they are more of a Tayu's. (high class ancient japan prostitute). Research for these items were alot of fun, alot of photo studies and stuff. I love R & D part of cosplaying.
Only when the wig was completed was I allowed to work on the hair accessories. Because without the wig done, I could not decide the sizing for these beautiful pieces.
I used Macromedia Freehand to trace blue prints of the hair accessories. Because I planned acrylic for them, I had to break down the 'layers' of acrylic shapes I require from the production in order to assemble myself to produce the accessories (especially the sakura flowers on her front bits)
1 impatient paper mock of the accessories, and the artworks were sent off to my favourite acrylic guy in the world. He cuts acrylic pieces of my preferance. This is the 2nd project he assisted me on.
The kira kira panels were made from thin alumminium sheets cut into small exact sizes, holes using nail and hammer on the same spot of every tiny piece. I think I did more than 60 pieces (I did spares just in case @[email protected])
All these are sprayed matt gold. The small kira-kira bits were difficult to spray because they were frigging light and tiny, the force of the spray would have sent them flying, I HAD TO SPRAY THEM SINGULARLY .... holding every piece using pins on foam boards. @[email protected];;;
But when I am done, it is so pretty I really really really adored it. ALOT.
The stockings with red bands on top, along with the matching arm gloves were the very first things I work on. I bought the same material for these items and also used it to construct the top. So that all the black parts of the costume is consistent and does not show different hues on photos.
The material is 2way stretch so I was doing my best to be careful how I plan my pattern bits when I cut. Oh god, so painful, because I am clumsy with such stuff. But good thing no fabric went to waste. I guess the limited amount of fabric put me on my toes when I draft. LOL.
I bought a kimono of the closest matching colour to construct the main 'dress' of the costume. The fabric was pretty and had beautiful textures depicting river flows. I really loved it and it was painful to tear it apart to use on the:
- ribbons on the wig
- 'fake' collar on top of the obi
- 'fake' kimono fold on the bottom of the obi
- kimono 'flowing dress' part following.
But old authentic kimonos have so much to learn from. As I breakdown the kimono, I learned HOW MUCH INSANITY went into making one of these kimonos, the hand stitching was incredibly neat using thin silk threads.... and pieces used to construct the kimono turned out to be much intricate than I thought.
Again, the chrysanthemum, sakura and kawa patterns on her obi were Freehand traced, and printed via heat transfer. It was alot of work, especially at the stage where I have to work with the heat transfer team. it was tormenting. But again, happy to have pulled through.
The obi layers 1 & 2 were both base fabrics with additional work on it before cutting and construction:
Obi layer one (red part) was PAIN IN THE ASS. It was not easy to find a 'shibori' kind of fabric. I found one very similar one but it was simple cotton at a price of SGD8.50 per metre. it was SO EXPENSIVE.
But I paid anyway because I just needed to be comfortable with the choice of fabric ._. I would like to thank my friend for taking the time out to complete the job of dyeing the fabric for me because I wanted it to be in the same dull-cherry shade. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Obi layer two was a midnight blue rayon, with Macromedia Freehand traced chrysanthemum pattern printed on in matt gold heat transfer. It turned out very very beautiful and I was really delighted. I kept staring at it.
One of the photog even said that he was like wow that the crazy obi showed up so clearly on his photos. I was really happy to hear that. The obi has much love ^^
The getas were a gift from Lenneth (Tachibana_Miyu)
Thank you ma love!
---- To Be Completed ----
I have so much to thank, Asterisk* for turning up in a Bakumatsu group. All the wig tips, the geta gift, some help in errand-running. My Yuyama troupe for helping this poor lady get up on her feet everytime she crack her knees for the poses she do to make herself look shorter. XD
I can't wait till the next time I can put this on again for some amazing photos that I can look forward to :D
Erda Hello! I just wanted to say, that your cosplay is beautiful and your photos and well detailed description encouraged me to do this costume. You're the best, good luck for your next costumes! ^^