Good pattern for stiff-collared cape?

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#1 eebee on 2 years ago

Trying to put together [URL="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/54339085/Rakan.0.png"]Rakan's capelet[/URL]. I've been playing with a few different muslin mockups, but I haven't found anything I love yet that achieves the high flared collar look while having minimal fabric bunching/creasing at the tie point.

I'm starting to look around for a good professional pattern, but I thought I'd check in with all you experienced folks first! Does anyone know of a good cape pattern to achieve this collar? Two- or one-piece patterns are both fine, as the tie rope can be used to disguise any seam between the collar and the cape.

Thanks!

#2 nathancarter on 2 years ago

It's going to have to be at least two pieces with a seam between the collar and cape, since fabric won't curve in two directions like that.

You will also likely need a facing on the inside of the collar (cutting a second copy of your collar piece) so that it's two layers, and a stiff interfacing to keep the collar in shape.

The cape may also need to be two or three pieces, depending on how you want it to drape over your shoulders. A modification to a simple circle cloak (or half-circle) might work, if you want to keep it one piece.

#3 Penlowe on 2 years ago

It's a lovely and very do-able collar, but yes the wide set of it means you will be drafting from scratch and absolutely need a multi part collar.

Because it's a collar, it will be VERY difficult to do on yourself, you really need to be able to look at parts you are not physically capable of looking at easily on yourself.
Use a human, a dress form, or a duct tape neck & shoulders home made form of the wearer to make your patterns. This is not guess-able, you need to cut paper, pin (or on a human tape) the collar shape in place. Tape little scraps of paper where you need to add, cut where you need to cut.

If you use a person who isn't the final wearer, they need to be reasonably close the the same size. Don't use Arnold Shwartzeneger to pattern out something Jada Pinkett is going to wear, or vice versa.

#4 lunaflora on 2 years ago

Of course you could probably post photos with any fit issues and we can try to help you with getting the collar to fit properly.

#5 eebee on 2 years ago

Thanks all!

I have plenty of interfacing of various stiffnesses kicking around, so I'm not too concerned about that aspect. The costume is also not for me and, luckily, the human that it is for lives with me and is a very patient model. My only sticking point so far has been that none of my muslin mockups have had quite the dramatic flare I'm hoping for. I'm trying to avoid the cliche vampire collar-to-cheekbones look, so I was hoping for some ideas pattern-wise.

I made a couple more edits/attempts today and got somewhere closer to the goal using 2-way stretch interfacing that I could mold a little. If I don't reach the goal shortly, I think I will do as Luna suggested and take a photo or two for ya'll!

#6 DlGlT on 2 years ago

Have you tried mocking it up like a cone? (aprox 3/4 circle).

#7 lunaflora on 2 years ago

Also I think it's worth mentioning that you should fit the actual capelet first, and ensure that it fits how you want it and where the neckline is. and THEN start the collar.

it looks like an almost half circle curve would give you enough flare

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