What kind of circle skirt is this, and how do I make a petticoat?

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#1 Ashton_Anchors on 1 year ago

Hi,

I've been trying to figure this out for a few days, but my cosplay involves some sort of circle skirt, and I don't know what kind. The skirt is the teal part.
[url]https://imgur.com/a/cIcDN[/url]

Also, another cosplayer used a petticoat to make the green/teal skirt poof. (link: [url]https://www.facebook.com/kimidoricosplay/photos/a.1114185915311011.1073741856.475899655806310/1131093856953550/?type=3&hc_location=ufi[/url] )
Every single petticoat tutorial I found is confusing (they go too fast, or give weird directions), and the directions shown result in petticoat types I don't need (I want it to look like the cosplayer's). How would I make it, and what easy to do tutorials do you recommend? I found ONE tutorial where tulle had been attached to a waistband, then elastic was weaved through to get it to look poofy/gathered, but I don't know how that would work without elastic/with elastic being cut.

Thanks in advance for any help! :)

#2 lunaflora on 1 year ago

Simply take a rectangle (you could also use semi-circles, but for simplicity's sake, let's go with rectangles) of netting or tulle and gather up one edge to how full you want it. The fullness depends on how tight you gather it, so I cannot tell you how much exactly you will need. It should be at least 3x the finished width though. anywhere from 3 to even 10...or 20 if you're insane. Add more layers to get more poofage.

As for the circle skirt. There's only one kind of circle skirt, really. it's just a basic circle skirt. Your cosplayer reference seems to have made a full circle skirt and gathered it up at the waist.

#3 CapsuleCorp on 1 year ago

None of those are circle skirts. There are lines drawn to suggest gathers on the outer part (obviously the underskirt is pleated), and while you can cut a skirt to gather in any shape (rectangles, trapezoids, curved rectangles, etc) it's not the same as a CIRCLE skirt. A circle skirt really is just a circle, bam, there really shouldn't be gathers at the waist unless you cut the waist circle too big.

Skirt hems can be cut to be slightly curved, or you can gather a rectangle so much that it ends up appearing curved when you're wearing it. Really, though, this character reference doesn't have heavy gathers so I can easily see the outer skirt being a couple of trapezoids with curved hems at the bottom. There are probably tons of basic skirt patterns with those kinds of shapes.

lunaflora's description of the tulle is spot-on. It's not terribly complicated, and for a tiny half-petticoat like that which has to be hidden under the skirt, it's super-fast.

#4 Ashton_Anchors on 1 year ago

[QUOTE=CapsuleCorp;5064533]None of those are circle skirts. There are lines drawn to suggest gathers on the outer part (obviously the underskirt is pleated), and while you can cut a skirt to gather in any shape (rectangles, trapezoids, curved rectangles, etc) it's not the same as a CIRCLE skirt. A circle skirt really is just a circle, bam, there really shouldn't be gathers at the waist unless you cut the waist circle too big.

Skirt hems can be cut to be slightly curved, or you can gather a rectangle so much that it ends up appearing curved when you're wearing it. Really, though, this character reference doesn't have heavy gathers so I can easily see the outer skirt being a couple of trapezoids with curved hems at the bottom. There are probably tons of basic skirt patterns with those kinds of shapes.

lunaflora's description of the tulle is spot-on. It's not terribly complicated, and for a tiny half-petticoat like that which has to be hidden under the skirt, it's super-fast.[/QUOTE]

This is why I asked lol. I am horrible at determining what types of skirts are used for costumes, other than pleated and half circle.
I know I have seen skirts like that on patterns, at least the way you described it. I'll take a look and see what I find from Simplicity or McCall's (or my own stash, I bought patterns randomly last year), and i feel REALLY stupid I didn't recognize it.

Thanks for help with this. :)

@Lunaflora: THANK YOU SO MUCH! They were all overly complicating it, and your description helps a LOT. I'm also glad to find out tulle is cheap, so if i need like 10 yards, it isn't expensive. But it looks like tulle comes on really wide bolts, so I hopefully will need less.
Thanks again for the help. :)

#5 lunaflora on 1 year ago

[QUOTE=Ashton_Anchors;5064539]This is why I asked lol. I am horrible at determining what types of skirts are used for costumes, other than pleated and half circle.
I know I have seen skirts like that on patterns, at least the way you described it. I'll take a look and see what I find from Simplicity or McCall's (or my own stash, I bought patterns randomly last year), and i feel REALLY stupid I didn't recognize it.

Thanks for help with this. :)

@Lunaflora: THANK YOU SO MUCH! They were all overly complicating it, and your description helps a LOT. I'm also glad to find out tulle is cheap, so if i need like 10 yards, it isn't expensive. But it looks like tulle comes on really wide bolts, so I hopefully will need less.
Thanks again for the help. :)[/QUOTE]

I actually wouldn't use tulle. It's too soft. If you can find petticoat netting or crinoline, I would use that instead. If you measure the length you need the flounces to be, you can sort of estimate how much fabric you need. Say, if you need it to be 20 inches, and you waist is 36 or so, then for a petticoat that goes all the way around your waist, you would need at least a 20x114 inch strip, thought I would actually do maybe 20x 228, or even 20x342. If the fabric you buy is 60 inches wide, you can get three 20 inch wide strips. So, if you decide to do 20x228 inches, then you would need 228/3 = 76 long piece. that's a little more than 2 yards.

I would honestly just do a gathered circle for the outer skirt. simplifies things and saves you the money of buying a pattern. just take the measurement around your waist you need the skirt to be, multiply by 3, and then use that as the inner diameter of a circle skirt.
Edit: actually, i keep forgetting there's a link to the reference art. I keep looking at the cosplay. Yeah, the skirt isn't a circle. Why not try just a simple gathered rectangle?

#6 Ashton_Anchors on 1 year ago

[QUOTE=lunaflora;5064540]I actually wouldn't use tulle. It's too soft. If you can find petticoat netting or crinoline, I would use that instead. If you measure the length you need the flounces to be, you can sort of estimate how much fabric you need. Say, if you need it to be 20 inches, and you waist is 36 or so, then for a petticoat that goes all the way around your waist, you would need at least a 20x114 inch strip, thought I would actually do maybe 20x 228, or even 20x342. If the fabric you buy is 60 inches wide, you can get three 20 inch wide strips. So, if you decide to do 20x228 inches, then you would need 228/3 = 76 long piece. that's a little more than 2 yards.

I would honestly just do a gathered circle for the outer skirt. simplifies things and saves you the money of buying a pattern. just take the measurement around your waist you need the skirt to be, multiply by 3, and then use that as the inner diameter of a circle skirt.
Edit: actually, i keep forgetting there's a link to the reference art. I keep looking at the cosplay. Yeah, the skirt isn't a circle. Why not try just a simple gathered rectangle?[/QUOTE]

Like this? I just want to be sure. This kind of looks like the tulle I saw, and I want to make sure it's not the same.

[url]https://www.voguefabricsstore.com/petticoat-netting-black.html[/url]

And ok, got it! How do you get the numbers? My waist is 37 inches (and may very well be 36 inches soon, I am working on weight loss, and then I could just use your numbers), and I'm not sure how to figure the numbers out.

And as for the skirt I will do that. :). I have some leftover material, so I can try it out. Makes it easier on me, AND cheaper. And is honestly a lifesaver, I couldn't find a pattern.

#7 lunaflora on 1 year ago

[QUOTE=Ashton_Anchors;5064566]Like this? I just want to be sure. This kind of looks like the tulle I saw, and I want to make sure it's not the same.

[url]https://www.voguefabricsstore.com/petticoat-netting-black.html[/url]

And ok, got it! How do you get the numbers? My waist is 37 inches (and may very well be 36 inches soon, I am working on weight loss, and then I could just use your numbers), and I'm not sure how to figure the numbers out.

And as for the skirt I will do that. :). I have some leftover material, so I can try it out. Makes it easier on me, AND cheaper. And is honestly a lifesaver, I couldn't find a pattern.[/QUOTE]

yes, this is the netting I would use. They look similar. but the petticoat netting is slightly thicker and much more stiffer.

I would make the skirt AFTER you're close to finishing the "petticoat." The petticoat collapses a bit when you put an overskirt over it, so you might want to add more to the petticoat. Also you wouldn't be able to really tell what the skirt would look like unless you have the petticoat under it.

For the numbers, just figure out how much lower from the waist you need it to be. add seam allowance to that, for sewing it to the waistband, and I would also add maybe 2 inches to that, because it gets shorter the poofier it is. Maybe 18 inches? You can always trim it afterwards since it doesn't fray. no need to hem netting unless you want to bind it to stop it from contact to the skin.

So that's for the length. For how wide, you say you're around 37 or 36, but you don't want it to go all the way around your waist, only a part of it, right? So figure out how far around the waist you need it to be. Maybe 13 inches each side? I kind of go by proportions. It looks like the skirt starts around the same line as the bust apex. The average for that is around 8 1/2 inches wide. Let's go with 9. The back also has a gap in the back. Let's guess that to be 2 inches. Also you don't want the petticoat to show, so you want it to be not as wide as the overskirt, so maybe an inch off that. So. 37- 9 - 2 = 26. Since we're splitting this into two, for both size, we divide by 2. That's 13. This is all "guessimations" and assumptions. You can probably more accurately figure out how wide you want it to be on your own body.

Now you want to figure out how much you want to gather down to 13 inches. This one, I don't really know how to help you, because it depends on how full you want it. You're going to have to play with it and see. But let's say you want to do 9x the final amount. This gives you some freedom, because now you can do a 1 layer flounce that is 9x the length at the hem, or you can do 3 layers of flounces that are 3x the length at the hem each.( If you choose the layered option, I would make each layer sewn a little lower than the one above it.)

Now we know the measurements, we can put it all together to figure out how much fabric we need. We want a flounce that is 18 inches , and be able to make a strip that is 13*9, which is 117 inches. Since we need two of these, we need 234 inches.

the fabric on Vogue says it's 60 inches wide. We figure out how many strips that are 18 inches we can get out of fabric that is 60 inches wide. So, 60 / 18 is 3. We can get 3 strips out of the fabric. Because we can get three, we can patch together the 3 strips to make the 234 inch length we need. so 234/3 is 78 inches. Add an inch or so to taht for seam allowance for sewing the strips together, and that's around 79 inches.

Now we know that we need a 60 by 79 inch piece of fabric in order to make this 18 by 234 strip. 79 is a little over 2 yards of fabric. I would buy extra, maybe 4 or even 6 total, Just in case you mess up, or it turns out you want it to be even poofier so you want to add more.

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