altering garment: hood

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#1 Bombdoll on 1 year ago

Disclaimer: I'm familiar with sewing, both by hand and with a machine. I've drafted my own simple patterns and sewn very simple costume garments in the past, like skirts, hats, and shirts. But I'm not a particularly skilled seamstress, I mostly make it through by following tutorials and hoping for the best. So, sourcing and altering store bought garments is usually my first plan of attack if at all possible.

I'm planning a cosplay of [URL=""]Sans from Undertale[/URL]. Thankfully he dresses like a slob with pretty typical clothing, such as a blue zippered hoodie, black/white athletic shorts, a white shirt of some sort of variety, and fluffy slippers as it appears. I honestly had very little trouble finding clothes that would work quite well, but they're not exact. I know I'll never get exact without doing it all myself, but that's a project for another day.

I have this hoodie ([URL=""][/URL]); its the perfect shade of blue. I plan to hand embroider a patch that resembles the [URL=",800x800,075,t.u1.jpg"]gaster blaster weapon[/URL] Sans uses in his fight to cover the fox logo on the chest (good luck to me on that too huh). But as it turns out, in the [URL=""]official merch[/URL] for the game, that his hood is grey. Not just the edge, but the whole hood, as the plushie reveals. I considered getting some grey knit fabric, tracing the shape of the panels of the hood already on the hoodie and sewing a kind of slip-cover that would go over the hood, then tacking it down along the existing seams. But I'm not a skilled seamstress, so that might not be the best or easiest approach to make the hood grey. Perhaps it would be better to remove the hood and sew a new one in grey material and re-attach the new grey one. So that's why I'm here, asking some more skilled folks than me what they think the best approach is.

TL;DR: Need to make a blue hood grey. How/what do? I can sew, but I am also a derp, so tutorials are yes!

#2 muckypup on 1 year ago

If you're a bit wary, then removing the hood and just adding a new one (using the existing one as a pattern) would be fine.

One benefit to making a cover for the hood would be that it adds more volume/structure and doesn't just lie pretty flat against your bad as they tend to do.
It sounds like you're totally capable of doing this :)

#3 Penlowe on 1 year ago

I think you are on the right track and agree with muckypup, you got this. I also second just doing a sleeve/ cover thing as it will add volume, which in this case is desirable.

this is a different garment, but it's nice pictures of how to go about the process:

For the patch/ hand work, I LOVE this lady's lessons, and she covers so many types of hand work :)

#4 Bombdoll on 1 year ago

Thanks for your responses! I've made a mock-up of what the[URL="[email protected]/d49rY2"] hoodie -should- resemble[/URL] once completed.

The hood is relatively structured as is, as its the sort of hood that uses 3 panels [URL=""](a center rectangular panel and 2 side semicircle like panels)[/URL] AND its double layered already. Would it make a 3-panel hood too bulky around the seams? I suppose in the event that I think its too bulky, I'd essentially have a complete hood that was intended to be a slip cover but would be able to be sewn in alone if need be.

Another issue I have with the hood is that its actually really well made. Well enough that I'm a little befuddled by the seam holding it to the rest of the garment.
[URL="[email protected]/u13h5q"]Photo 1: inside seam (I can see this one, it looks like a straight stitch through the tape)[/URL]
[URL="[email protected]/WZR5a4"]Photo 2: outside seam (this one is a rolled seam, but the top portion of the roll is also secured down -somehow- and I don't know how @[email protected][/URL]
When I tug a little at the outside seam, where the roll joins the hood, I can see that there's stitches holding it down. I don't know how a machine did this, I would have to do it very carefully by hand with my current know-how. So I guess my question is, did a machine do this? Or did some person have to hand stitch it down? Like, its really well hidden.:lost:

As a second, attached question, the rolled hem running alongside the zipper appears to need to be grey as well. This would have been achieved by sewing a grey material onto the blue base while installing the zipper, I think, so that the rolled edge would have had a smooth transition from behind the zipper to in front of it. Will I have to remove the zipper to put grey material in there or do you think I can kinda just roll a strip of grey around it and straight stitch it down neatly enough? That was my best guess cuz I've done one zipper ever and it was crooked.
[URL="[email protected]/W12W5F"]Photo 1: front of zipper roll thing[/URL]
[URL="[email protected]/4ML72u"]photo 2: back of zipper roll thing feat. excess blue material[/URL]

Ugh, I'm not too bright. But I really appreciate your input so far! Thank you for taking time to help out!

#5 alltomorrows on 1 year ago

That hood application is actually pretty simple. You have a standard seam joining the hood to the body, and then twill tape sewn on afterward to hide the seam allowances. At the top of the tape, it's sewn to the seam allowance right on top of the seam joining the hood to the body (you would sew this with the hood side of the seam on top, and the tape on top of that, lined up so it just covers the original stitching.) Then the seam allowance is trimmed down so the tape completely covers it, and the free edge of the tape is sewn down through the outer layer of the body. That's the one row of stitching you see on the outside. If you're willing to undo a little of that outer row of stitching you should be able to see how it works.

The zipper looks like a pretty standard zipper application, no separate hem involved. The gray in the photo looks like it was sewn on before the zipper, but If you're not comfortable with removing the zipper and adding the extra fabric, you could certainly try sewing the other fabric on top and see how you like it.

#6 Bombdoll on 1 year ago

Aaaah okay. That makes a bit more sense. I guess I was imagining the whole thing being done in one pass. Obviously that was kinda silly of me. I'm feeling pretty confident on the hood now, and the grey bit next to the zipper shouldn't be tricky for me if I can leave the zipper attached. I don't know if I'll get to a fabric store until after xmas, but when I do I'll see if I can find a lighter weight grey knit to use for this project and I'll try it the easy way with a baste stitch on the zipper and assess the outcome before I commit. Thanks!!

#7 Penlowe on 1 year ago

Most of your issues have been addressed :)
[QUOTE] its double layered already. Would it make a 3-panel hood too bulky around the seams? I suppose in the event that I think its too bulky,[/QUOTE]
It is perfectly acceptable to sew a seam allowance and then trim close-ish to the stitching to reduce bulk. The thicker or fluffier the material being sewn the more common this is. Fur in particular really benefits from this.