Saber (Extra) Sleeve Help Please

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#1 KanraKami on 6 years ago

I'm doing a Saber cosplay from Fate/Extra (Ref. [url][/url] [url][/url])

However I'm not entirely sure how to do the poofy part of the sleeve. It's sort of like a mutton sleeve, but it's a bit more pointy and not so droopy. (btw I already have patterns for the jacket part, just need to know how to work the poofy sleeve into it) Does anyone know how I can achieve that look? Even better, can anyone link me a pattern? Would help wonders! Thanks!

#2 Ichigogami on 6 years ago

Think of it more like a Lantern sleeve, you can create a sleeve that cuts at that particular area of the bicep Like this for example [url][/url]

#3 KanraKami on 6 years ago

Are there any good patterns that are similar to the lantern sleeves on Sabers dress? Or maybe someone can give me tips on how to shape them, since they have such a specific and prominent shape.

#4 Ichigogami on 6 years ago

the way to make a Lantern you have any experience drafting patterns? even if you don't I could give you some ideas of how to go about this if you's really just math and making sure of fit to your arm/ the jacket and such

#5 KanraKami on 6 years ago

I have some experience, I experimented and made my own mutton sleeves for my Chibitalia cosplay in 2011. And I have plenty of plain white cotton to experiment with.

I had been googling lantern sleeves for a really long time the past 24 hours and basically got nowhere so I'll take anything you can give me @[email protected]

#6 Ichigogami on 6 years ago

They are basically a circleskirt for your arm, take the basic sleeve that already goes for your jacket and copy it 4 times on paper so that you can use these for manipulation, let me know when you have that step completed and I'll take you to the next step

#7 KanraKami on 6 years ago

Thanks for the help.
Got that done.

#8 KanraKami on 5 years ago

Can you tell me the next step?

#9 KanraKami on 5 years ago

Crap. Well. I don't know where Ichigogmai went, but if anyone else can help me that'd be great.

#10 Ichigogami on 5 years ago

Sincerely Sorry hun, but apparently midpost, we moved apartments... @[email protected] Sorry about that... no internet for now but since I have some at the moment....

take one copy and cut it at the bicep section where you want the top sleeve to end on your arm, then cut that where you want the seam to be to make it that Saucer shape

Working with the upper half of the new top sleeve. (From Top to bottom)
Fold it in half so that the armscye (The rounded shoulder part) is in half, that top point of the arc will now be your center point. Mark it with a dot, then reinforce it with a piece of tape.

From there, using the dot as your center point, make a couple radiating lines that end on the new bottom of the sleeve hem. (5-6 lines should do the trick)

You're going to perform a manuver called Slashing and Spreading, where you cut along the lines (TO BUT NOT and I STRESS NOT THROUGH THE CENTER POINT) and spread them out to give you LOTS of extra space between the pieces.

Place this on top of another piece of paper, and tape it down, then trace around it. As is the piece will be very pointy, but you want to use the center point at the hem (Where you folded the piece in half) and curve out from there making a clean curve to where the underarm seam is.

Working with the bottom half (From Bottom to Top)

Take the bottom half of the upper sleeve, and fold it in half matching up underarm seams and now using the hem (Bottom) point as your centerpoint, reinforce with tape.

Make your radiating lines, (do the same amount of lines and areas of slashing as the upper sleeve. Also use the same amount of excess between the pieces as you do with the upper sleeve)
This time, you will be doing it from bottom to top, so that the seam along the sleeve center ends up curved out to give you that Lantern shape.

For example. I used 1.5 inches per slash, to give the excess fluff I wanted I would repeat that to the lower part as well... but this time it would be towards the upper sleeve, away from the hem of the bottom part.

Curve out both your hem which will now be more rounded, and your bicep seam

When you sew these two pieces together it will have a lantern like shape, if you want more body I suggest adding a medium weight or light weight fusible interfacing unless you are looking for a more drapey silhouette...

Happy sewing

#11 KanraKami on 5 years ago

So I finally got to the sleeves (been really busy)
I have my 2 pieces (top and bottom of lantern) cut out, I'm just having trouble getting them to meet up properly, and also have to try to get it to the right shape. I haven't cut it out of fabric yet though, I've just been using some large newsprint paper I had lying around.

#12 KanraKami on 5 years ago

I have a new question, how would I add the interfacing to my sleeves to make them stand properly?

#13 Evil Bishounen on 5 years ago

Use fusible interfacing. Possibly more than one layer. Fuse all the individual pieces before sewing them up. Topstitching the seam allowances also provides a little more stiffness and helps reinforce the overall shape, if you don't mind that kind of design touch. (I really like the look of narrow topstitching, but other people may not.)