Questions about how to do parts of this dress?

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#1 Ashton_Anchors on 1 year ago

I have two questions: I was wondering how do I arrange the pieces for my pattern to make the piece in front (the kind of loincloth looking one) when my pattern has princess seams? Do I just combine the pieces when tracing and add that to the center, or make it as is with half an angled rectangle on the pieces, and sew the pieces together, including the loincloth thing?
And here's my srcond question: How do I make the v at the top of the dress? Do I make a collar and the v as another piece, and attach it to the real parts, or do I make the top as a full top, and cut the window out?

Here's my refs:

I'm kind of stuck on the first part. I have the patterns cut out, and they fit me without altering, so I just need to trace them and make the changes to the bottom.

#2 lunaflora on 1 year ago

I think the whole top is one piece. Collar, sleeves, and bodice.

For the extended center-front V shape "loincloth", I would extend all 3 or 4 front panels down so everything is one piece, not making it a separate piece but making it all one piece.

#3 Penlowe on 1 year ago

I agree with Lunaflora about extending the front panels into that loincloth type piece. It'll be prettiest without any horizontal seams there.

While the whole bodice is worn as one piece, I wouldn't start with a dress and then try to open it up. I'd sew the main bodice as a self supporting garment, (i.e. a corset type thing) then just tack on the sleeves and other bit. The sleeves & collar are not holding up the bodice, there's just not enough there to support it.

#4 Ashton_Anchors on 1 year ago

Ok, thanks. :D. I read both posts a long time ago, but completely forgot I hadn't replied.
I made it now as two pieces in front as the muslin (so I could get the loincloth thing symmetrical), and plan on trading the piece as a whole, as was suggested :). That is going smoothly.
The smaller bits towards the top, not so much. I made the top so far as a form of tank top so far, and am making the little v as its own piece with a curved shape for the neck, a collar, and a back piece with triangles. I planned to connect the front v to the back triangle thing in the center (with a curve for my neck), attach the collar, then sew everything down to the top and back of the bodice, and cover it in teal where necessary. Is this right? Or would there be too many seams?
I actually have another, semi related question. I know this will need interfacing to keep the back up (the back is bottomweight stretch sateen, but I don't see it staying up alone ), but do I need interfacing elsewhere (aside from the collar)? I can't remember if I asked already, but I don't think so. And if so, do I need to cover it up with anything? I haven't used interfacing outside of collars so far, so I'm not sure.

#5 Penlowe on 1 year ago

Are you asking if one layer of fabric backed with inner facing will do? Technically yes, but it won't be very comfortable AND it'll show on your turned edges.

Cut all those collar/ upper bodice bits twice, to create a front and a facing.
Layer right sides together with the inner facing on the wrong side of one of your fabric pieces.
Sew a scant 1/4" seam allowance, clip curves,turn, and press.
Now you'll have really pretty pieces that also have good structural integrity.