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Unread 05-20-2007, 12:56 PM   #1
Saeru
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Tested Comparison of two top makeup brands

This is linked from my Anti-Sora construction thread. ^.^ If you're interested in the other techniques I used to make This costume, visit my thread (about Shoes, Wigs, Glowy-eyes, and more!) here:
The Making of Anti-Form Sora

My notes on makeup can be found in the post below.

This thread compares the benefits/negatives of two brands of makeup: Ben-nye's Creme Foundations and Kryolan's Aquacolors. These are both commonly used in theatre and in photography, and are easily available on the web.

Last edited by Yui : 03-23-2010 at 04:07 PM. Reason: fixed link ^_^;
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Unread 05-20-2007, 12:57 PM   #2
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Kryolan vs Ben Nye

For doing the black skin on Anti-Form Sora, I experimented with two different high-quality black makeups to decide which one would be better on the skin, and this is what I've found:

Kryolan Aquacolor:
-----Benefits include: Available at cosworx; fast-drying; less-likely to rub off; easy to remove
-----Negatives include: Uneven appearance overall, even after multiple layers; difficulty in adding multiple layers; does still rub-off slightly; requires water medium to apply(not easy to touch-up on the go)
-----Notes: Kryolan is a water-soluble makeup, meaning that it requires water to apply, and can also be removed easily in water. This means that the first layer goes on exceedingly fast with a wet sponge, but that if you go over any place makeup is already applied with the same wet sponge, it will remove the makeup. This effect can be lessened if one sprays a fixative on in between adding layers, but it will still occur and give an uneven appearance. Since water is required for application, its difficult to do touch-ups without access to a bathroom, so its not recommended if you're not going to be anywhere near a water-source. Kryolan will stay on over the oils of your face, but does start to drip when you sweat. The ideal application of kryolan is with a paintbrush over an oil-soluble makeup, or as a base under an oil-soluble makeup.

Ben-Nye Creme Foundation:
-----Benefits include: Even application; no medium required; superior durability; easy to touch-up on the go
-----Negatives include: Difficult to remove fully; Will rub-on to others in casual contact; not available at cosworx
-----Notes: Ben-nye is an oil-soluble makeup, which can be applied directly to the skin with no water or other medium required. The layers are extremely easy to apply evenly, so long as a fixative is used in-between each layer, and the more layers applied the more realistic the effect. Ben-nye is problematic in that it will come off on others with casual contact, and will rub-off a bit on whatever you're wearing. Amazingly enough, however, even though it rubs-off onto others, where they touch the wearer still looks fine. Its easy to do touch-ups while wandering around, since it can be painted directly on, but over time your skin will start to take on an oily appearance, especially if one is prone to oily skin. It won't come off when you sweat, but, for that matter, it won't really come off in just water, either. You'll need soap and water, and expect to spend a few days scrubbing before you're mostly back to normal. (Even a week after the con I've got some black still on my neck). Ben-nye and kryolan work GREAT in conjunction with each other, especially if you combine them in layers together, since their properties tend to compliment. Ben-nye cannot be purchased at cosworx, but you can find it on google easily.
Here is one such shop.

The two blacks that I used, for reference, are Aquacolor 071 and Ben Nye P-9 Black.
If there are any questions, I'll be happy to do my best to answer. ^.^

Last edited by Saeru : 05-22-2007 at 04:50 PM.
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Unread 05-20-2007, 02:28 PM   #3
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Thank you this takes the pains away from me trying to figure out which of the two I would like to use. Kryolan will work perfectly for my use. Thanks again. Fantastic Sora BTw
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Unread 05-22-2007, 01:25 AM   #4
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This is good input. But do state things more carefully. Kryolan Aquacolor is water activated makeup. However the company Kryolan also produces creme makeups and greasepaints. Likewise, Ben Nye sells product lines such as magicolor which is a water based makeup. Both Creme makeup and greasepaint are oil based makeups, but their specific oil base is different, resulting in different consistencies, so you should probably mention exactly which Ben Nye product you are describing.
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Unread 05-22-2007, 04:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by verdatum View Post
This is good input. But do state things more carefully. Kryolan Aquacolor is water activated makeup. However the company Kryolan also produces creme makeups and greasepaints. Likewise, Ben Nye sells product lines such as magicolor which is a water based makeup. Both Creme makeup and greasepaint are oil based makeups, but their specific oil base is different, resulting in different consistencies, so you should probably mention exactly which Ben Nye product you are describing.
Good point. I'll also go ahead and put in which colors I used, as well.
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Unread 06-10-2007, 10:20 PM   #6
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-raises hand-
Ooh, ooh, I've got a question!

Would the same properties apply if using a lighter color? You said the ben-nye was hard to get off, but might a yellow be easier?

Could I mix a color with white to make it lighter?

and finally: Is there any place where we might be able to try a little sample of it? My friend's skin is sensitive to most makeup, so we want to make sure it wouldn't have a bad reaction before we buy anything.
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Unread 06-14-2007, 05:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scriggu View Post
-raises hand-
Ooh, ooh, I've got a question!

Would the same properties apply if using a lighter color? You said the ben-nye was hard to get off, but might a yellow be easier?

Could I mix a color with white to make it lighter?

and finally: Is there any place where we might be able to try a little sample of it? My friend's skin is sensitive to most makeup, so we want to make sure it wouldn't have a bad reaction before we buy anything.
A yellow would probably stay on just as 'permanently,' but would be -much- less noticeable than a black.

We've not tried mixing separately, so I'm not sure. However, we have done experiments with applying lighter colors on over darker ones to change the hue, and that works very well. ^.^ In fact, its recommended, since it gives the color itself more depth.

I've not found one. Even at the Johnnie Brocks where I purchased the Ben Nye, they wouldn't let you sample it. Mostly health issues, I believe. ^.^
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Unread 06-14-2007, 09:13 PM   #8
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Thank you for posting this, I'm going to be buying some black makeup this week so your info is very helpful. Thank you, thank you! :3
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Unread 06-14-2007, 09:58 PM   #9
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Hmmm...coolness. I was thinking about crossplaying Hidan in both forms, so this'll definitely come in handy. ^^
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Unread 06-15-2007, 05:04 PM   #10
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Having decided to do another Hello Kitty costume, this is pretty useful!

I do have to wonder though -- would the "uneven appearance" of Aquacolor be lessened with a lighter color, do you think? Specifically, white?

Also, what parts of your body did you color using these?
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Unread 06-15-2007, 05:36 PM   #11
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FYI: Saeru's content has been transcribed to the cosplay wiki here:
http://www.cosplaywiki.org/index.php/Makeup

I have updated it with further details on other categories of professional makeup (Alcohol Activated and PAX) and done other minor edits on the content to give further experience.

Scriggu, yes, aquacolor mixes very nicely. You can either layer it on the skin partially disolving the lower layer creating a blend, or you can pre mix it by adding water to both colors then transfering the desired ratio of liquid to a paint cup. If desired, you can then let the water evaporate causing the makeup to return to it's original solid form, to be applied later.

starcat, the uneven appearance of aquacolor can be overcome with a steady hand, a moderate quality brush, and a bit of experience. The main knack in getting a solid and even appearance is to dip the brush only slightly in water and then repeatedly work the brush back and forth over the makeup until the water becomes completely saturated with makeup. Once the brush reaches this loaded state, it can dry fairly quickly, so there's a bit of a balancing act, but it's really not too hard to get the hang of. Compared to other products like Retail store halloween makeup, Aquacolor is phenomonally better.

Both of you: The 'lightness' or 'darkness' of a color doesn't matter, what matters is opacity; how much of your true skin color shines out beneath the makeup. With these styles of makeup, the goal is less so to blend in with your skin, and moreso to roll over it entirely allowing you to make it exactly the color you want. Which isn't to say you can't thin aquacolor with water until it's a wash, or blend creme makeup to nothingness.

I don't think Creme makeup is very hard to remove at all. If you buy any drugstore makeup remover, your task will be much much easier than if only armed with soap and water alone. It's also partially dependant on body chemistry. Personally, if I'm ever dumb enough to leave creme makeup on overnight, it has always been completely gone (onto my pillow) by the next morning.


These are my pages of the subjects:
Aquacolor: http://fx.wikia.com/wiki/Cake_makeup
AA Makeup: http://fx.wikia.com/wiki/Alcohol_activated_makeup
PAX: http://fx.wikia.com/wiki/PAX

Naturally, anyone wishing to improve these pages may edit them freely.

Hope this helps
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Last edited by verdatum : 06-16-2007 at 03:37 AM. Reason: fixed links
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Unread 06-15-2007, 05:47 PM   #12
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Verdatum, for 696 posts, you are amazing. Your knowledge and advice never ceases to amaze me. =D A huuuge THANK YOU because you really helped! The first two wiki links don't seem to work, though. =< The other ones are really interesting though!

I have one more question: what would you consider to be a good brush for Aquacolor makeup, and where would I find one? ^_^;
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Unread 06-16-2007, 04:04 AM   #13
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Whoops. Thought I remembered creating those articles, guess I didn't. I have an article on Cake makeup, which makes mention of Aquacolor, but it's not terribly detailed. I'll have to fix that. Edited the links correctly.

As far as brushes, I'm no authority really, the only thing I know is MAC cosmetic brushes are one of the most expensive things I've ever seen. I personally picked up a set of soft synthetic brushes from my local craft store. 7 brushes for about 15$. There are usually displays set up in the store explaining which type of brushes to get for what purpose. You want one that's good for watercolors, as aquacolor is really not far off from that. In makeup, you'll mostly want flat brushes. As far as the size, you generally want the widest brush appropriate for that part of the face. Then switch to smaller brushes to fill in missed spots. The idea is to use the fewest number of brushstrokes possible. This avoids the appearance of those streaks that sorta look like the rows you see on a freshly cut lawn.

From what I read, in professional makeup, sable brushes seems to be the prefered type, at least that's true for the creme makeups. But on the beginner level, I don't see the need to fork out the extra dough. (mind you, artistically speaking, I'm still on the beginner level. Don't let the technical knowledge fool you, I can barely draw stick figures).
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Unread 06-16-2007, 03:09 PM   #14
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Flat brushes designed for watercolors? I'll see if I can find a set of these next time I go to the craft store! Thanks!

As nearly all cosplayers are, I have a budget, so synthetic brushes will probably do just fine. They may not be the best, but they'll do well enough. Thank you again, though. ^_^
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Unread 02-13-2008, 07:44 PM   #15
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I have a question that has been bugging me for a while!

Did you paint your ears? How did you do it.. Or if you covored it... I just wanna know cuz I would need help with this...
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